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How-To Project Gallery

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14 comments:

  1. Your work is beautiful. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to post the pictures and step by step instructions. You really take the guess work out of the process. I have a question, though, about the finishes. For the Teal and Persimmon Side Table you used Watco Satin Wax, for the Chalk Pain Desk you used Minwax Finishing Wax and for the Color Wash Technique you used Miniwax Polycrylic Finish. I'm wondering if this is just a personal preference or if these finishes are specific for the project used. I look forward to your reply and thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my question.

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    1. Thank you!! And what a perfect question, I can't believe I haven't cleared that up before! Well, it's sort of a combination of what you guessed. Personal preference, and finish effect. Certain finishes give certain effects and protection levels. The reason I have used many different ones, is because there are SO many options and I want to test them out. I'll do a whole post on it someday, but for now, let me give a lil diddy about the ones you mentioned & why I chose them:

      Watco Satin Wax - this is a soft, rub on wax. It comes out of the can as a liquid, and rubs in SO easily. It provides medium protection, and would need to be oiled now and then. I chose that one because it has NO tint, so it can be a soft wax without changing the paint color.

      Minwax Polycrylic - my favorite! It comes in many different finishes (satin, gloss, etc) and is water based so that makes for easy clean up. It has superior protection against life in general, and goes on clear - meaning it wont tint or change your colors. I've only ever had ONE problem with it where it smeared a stain once, but that was it. It's my old stand by, tried and true. Great to have around, keeps your finish in place.

      Minwax Finishing Paste (for the chalk paint) - this was a new one for me, and it was great. Now this is in PASTE form, and was tinted dark. I chose it so that I could rub it on with a rag, and intentionally add a bit of dark tint to the paint. It also got in the tiny cracks and details, further highlighting them. All waxes are a rub on buff off situation, and leave a soft water resistant finish. They do need a reapplication now and then, which is normal.

      I hope that helps! Most of the time I am just trying to learn more about finishes and so I just give them a try. With so many options you really have your pick, and you have to decide what it is you NEED from a finish, and go from there. Got messy kids? Go with polycrylic all the way. Want a soft durable sheen on an area that won't get messed with? Hit up the wax. You can also poly over the wax, am I getting carried away? haha. feel free to ask more questions if I confused you, and thanks for writing!

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    2. Thank you so very much for taking the time and giving me such a detailed explanation which is very helpful :) I have another question for you. Do you have an opinion/comments on using Stix Waterborne Bonding Primer and/or Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer/Sealer to avoid sanding a piece of furniture or kitchen cabinets?
      Thanks, Chris

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    3. These are some really awesome projects!

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  2. Hmm, it depends on the project. Never used stix, but i've used the bulls eye, it was pretty good. If you do chalk paint you dont' have to sand, in general sanding is always a good idea.

    What project are you doing? I'd say at the very least do a de-glosser, it's a product you'd spray on and wipe off to take the sheen off of a cabinet or other smooth surface.

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  3. Thanks. I have several projects lined up. maple dressers and end tables that have stain, one with urethane and older pieces maybe varnish. Thinking about changing stained/urethane oak kitchen cabinets that are 27 years old, the high ones are in great shape but the lower ones show wear and I don't like the honey oak color anymore - outdated. Trying to decide on which look I want for the maple pieces. Should I sand after the de-glosser?

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  4. By adding a product called Floetrol, available at any paint store, the chalk paint is easier to work with.

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  5. We're working on the chalk paint project, but when we went to do the second coat the next day, the paint is applying to the buffet very gritty--almost like we added sand to it. Any suggestions as to why this is happening and how to fix it? Thanks!

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    1. Hmm... did you mix a new batch of chalk paint or use the same as the night before? I wonder if the DIY paint may start to harden in jar since it's plaster.. let me know! Email me if you like 9redinfo@gmail.com

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  6. Came by from Better After...loving your work! Your use of color is wonderful.

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  7. Thank you so much for all of the great information! I could spend hours on your site! :)

    You mentioned in a post above that you can apply poly over wax. I've just finished an Empire styled chest, and refinished the top with Minwax Dark Walnut stain and ASCP dark wax...just one coat. I'm not loving the wax and am thinking I should have applied Minwax Polycrylic. Do you think I can apply the poly over the waxed portion without any issues? The project was a labour of love and would hate to ruin it. Do you foresee any problems in putting the poly over the wax? Any prep (outside of stripping it all off!) that I should consider?

    Thanks again for a great site and any insights would be greatly appreciated!

    Robin

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    1. great question! I am pretty sure you can poly right over wax, but let me be sure and ask some friends who work on furniture too. I'll be in touch shortly!

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    2. OK - my colleagues are saying it's safest to clean with mineral spirits first. Or rubbing alcohol, or white vinegar. Something to dissolve the wax before putting a seal on it. Hope that helps!

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  8. Our studio club is looking to do the triple canvas project. Was a tutorial ever put together? Our questions are whether or not you painted the canvases first and what size canvases did you use?

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